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So the solution starts on the flat. You must try on the flat to not let him lean on your hands. I know it is easy to say it but a horse who is heavy or pulls can only do it if he has something to pull against, the secret is in giving the rein and having soft hands. Try lifting your hands if he leans on them - start just at a walk, push your hands forward as far as you can without leaning forward yourself, lift them vertically upwards to pull him off the forehand.

Don't snatch him in the mouth but also don't be afraid of him throwing his head up when you do it. Put plenty of leg on at the same time. As soon as he does what you are asking and comes up, instantly drop your hands and release the contact and ease off your leg aid. This is his reward for doing what you ask, and the speed of giving the rein to him is the secret of getting him to understand what you want.

If he wants to stretch down, let him and give him enough rein to do it, don't ever allow him the comfort of leaning on your hands, not even for a second. You have to be constantly adjusting and fine tuning the contact through the rein - he has to learn to carry his own weight. Good exercises for this problem are shoulder-in and leg yielding.

Don't worry how well or badly you can do these exercises, you're not being judged, just trying to do them will have a benefit. Never get into a situation of going round and round on a circle with him leaning on you and you getting tired arms. As soon as he tries to lean, do something different, change the rein, make a transition, lift your hands as I described, keep him guessing.

If you release the contact and he falls on his head or stumbles then great, perhaps he will learn that he can't do it anymore! Of course you always need to be using leg at the same time to bring his hindquarters underneath him, but you don't need to have superhuman strength. I don't think your problem is in the bit you are using but as an afterthought you could try a Myler Combination bit.

This works like a hackamore on the nose, but is combined with a bit. If correctly fitted it should work on the nose first and then the bit comes into play as you continue to apply rein pressure. I have know this to be successful with horses who use the bit as a prop, but all that I have described before still counts for more, so don't just change the bit and carry on as before!

Also, you don't mention them but if you are using drawreins, THROW THEM AWAY. They are the worst thing for a horse who is heavy in front as it gives you the strength for him to lean on you even more. When you are schooling try to imagine you are riding with reins made out of cotton thread that will break easily if you pull on them too hard.

As for the jumping, I don't fully understand the problem here from your description, it is difficult without seeing it, but I suspect it all relates to your flatwork. If he is dropping his head and stretching over the jump then this is obviously good and needs to be encouraged even if it is difficult to sit on him when he jumps.

I may be misunderstanding you here, but I am guessing the problem is that you are being thrown off balance over the jump and can't get back in the saddle and in control again quickly enough to deal with the next fence. There are a few things to look at here. Are your stirrups the correct length? It may help to shorten them as this could give you more stability.

Also look at the saddle you are using. Is it forward cut enough to allow you to ride shorter, and does it have some decent knee rolls or blocks to help you stay in balance over the jump. Are you able to give him enough rein over the jump? You need a contact over the jump but it has to be very light. If he is pulling you forward and out of the saddle then you need to give him more rein over the jump rather than trying to shorten his neck, you have to let him jump in the shape that he feels comfortable with.

If you are coming a long way out of the saddle over the jump, or throwing yourself up his neck, try not to do it. You only need your bottom to come out of the saddle by an inch to help your horse over the jump, and it is then a shorter distance for you to get back into the saddle and back in control after the jump. Try and move your hands and arms forward and down, rather than shifting your whole body forward over the jump.

It will feel strange at first, but exaggerate the amount you push your arms forward and down until it feels ridiculous, make your elbows straight, and then you will probably be about right. At the same time see how little you can come out of the saddle while still getting the weight of his back on takeoff, bend forward from the hips rather than throwing your body forward. If you watch John Whitaker his body is almost upright over a jump, but he is in perfect balance and always gives the horse plenty of rein.

If you can get him off the forehand on the flat this should help with your jumping as he will hopefully make a better jump and not end up landing on his head so to speak. You say he is long, is he a bit like a plank, stiff and not supple? If so then you really do need to improve his outline and self carriage on the flat if you are to have any chance of success. Don't be afraid to have some lessons from a good instructor for your flatwork. It would be money well spent.

Good Luck!

James Loffet
www.moretonsaddlery.co.uk