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VICES:

A vice is a departure from normal behaviour that can damage either the horse or its surroundings.

There are many causes and just as many theories, but most are thought to be as a result of nervousness, neglect, being ill at ease, overworked or long hours of confinement will little or no exercise. Vices may appear at almost any time in a horse's life, and may occur either spontaneously or be copied from other horses. Heredity may also predispose a horse to certain vices.

To control a vice one must try to establish and remove its cause as early as possible. Make sure that foals are handled often and that young horses get plenty of fresh air and time out to play. It is also important that the horse is fed according to work and exercise and that it does and that their stable is of an adequate size for them to move about freely.

CRIB-BITING and WINDSUCKING:

This is where the horse grasps the edge of an object such as a door top, manger or fence post with its front teeth and then gulps down air with its mouth held open.

There are many theories for the causes of this vice; some say swallowing air releases pleasure chemicals in the brain. Others say boredom or frustration brings it on.

While some horses suffer no ill effects from this behaviour, most suffer digestive disorders and lose weight and condition. Crib-biting is most common in Thoroughbreds or those horses that spend long periods of time stabled.

Treatment:

In this operation part of the muscle which controls the movement of the throat when swallowing is removed. The operation is successful in about 90% of cases, but those horses most likely to relapse, have been crib-biters for a long time.

It is recommended that this operation be performed when the horse reaches it's 3rd birthday and an anti-weaving strap be worn until then, to prevent other horses copying the behaviour and to preserve fencing etc.

Windsucking is another form of aerophagia in horses. This vice is similar to crib-biting but the horse does not grab onto anything with its teeth, it learns to gulp down air simply by creating a vacuum in the mouth. There is also an operation to cure this more unusual vice, by way of a metal canulae put in to the cheek to break the vacuum.

WOOD CHEWING:

The causes for chewing wood can be tooth problems and teething, stomach or intestinal parasites or mineral deficiency. The most common causes are boredom, lack of exercise or nervousness.

To help with this problem in the stable eliminate surfaces of wood by covering them with sheet metal or thick rubber sheeting. In the field an electrified tape can be run just inside the fence line or wire just above the top rail. There are also many proprietary liquids and pastes that have a disagreeable taste and can be brushed onto surfaces that the horse favours.

WEAVING:

Weaving may either be spontaneous or be learnt from other horses. The horse shifts from side to side on its forelegs. The shoulders, neck and head of the horse swings from side to side like a pendulum, and the rhythm can be so frantic that the horse looks as though it could overbalance.

This is a very distressing condition for a horse owner to see as it is a most unnatural movement to see and the horse seems to have little control over the habit and the horse loses condition and weight because it never relaxes and rests. One theory for the cause of this behaviour is that the rhythmic movement caused endorphins in the brain to be released which gives the horse a 'high' feeling. This unnatural behaviour also puts strain on the joints and tendons.

This condition is almost impossible to stop. Special grills can be put over the stable door to restrict the movement of the head and neck when the horse is stood with his head over the stable door, but some horses weave inside the stable.

The best solution is to turn the horse out as much as possible and make sure that when he is stabled, his surroundings are calm and quiet. Some horses will weave whilst they are waiting to be fed but will show no tendency to do this at any other time.

CIRCLING: (box walking)

In this vice the horse continually walks in circles in his box. The same kind of damage can be done to ligaments and joints as in weaving, and the same curative treatment can be tried. Tying the horse can also be a remedy but care must be taken that the horse will not come to any danger from the rope. A horse that is stalled, as some police horses are, would have no opportunity to develop this vice.

VICES OF TEMPERAMENT:

Many horses are more than suitable for the purpose for which they were bought but are just not pleasurable to have around.

BITING:

Horses who bite can be very dangerous - horrific wounds can be inflicted by even the smallest pony. Often horses are fed tit-bits and this encourages the horse to beg, but when the begging is ignored the horse then takes to "asking" in a more aggressive manner.

Others see any close contact as a threat, and attack as a form of defence. We do not always know the past lives of our horses, and there could well be justification for a horse to react in this way.

Always keep your eye on a horse that is known to bite and learn to read the signals he gives when he threatens. If the horse actually makes contact or threatens, give a short slap on a fleshy part of the horse, well away from the head and use your voice to back up your disapproval.

Only do this immediately the horse has threatened or bitten; later on this would be cruel, as he would have no idea why he had just been punished. Eventually the horse should respond to the voice only and a smack will not be necessary.

KICKING:

All too often, horses that have been badly treated when younger develop an "attack and ask questions later" tactic where humans are concerned – but horses that kick with their hind legs can inflict fatal blows.

Unless the horse was genuinely scared by something behind it, irritated by a fly, trying to shake something off its leg or there was some other justifiable reason for its outburst, I would not hesitate for one minute in parting with a kicking animal.

Always be careful when handling a horse you are not familiar with and wear a hard hat when working around the back of horse you are unsure of.

REARING:

Some horses that rear will only lift their front feet off the ground a short distance and only do it at certain times when they are overexcited or keen to move forward.

Some horses will rear as a way of refusing to go forwards, for example over a jump, or into water. With situations like this, where the horse is merely over enthusiastic or disobedient, a good competent rider can usually overcome them.

Other causes to be considered for this behaviour can be as a result of a painful back, an old injury that the horse has not forgotten or a mouth problem, but all physical problems should be considered, and the tack used must be given a thorough going over.

If you are unfortunate enough to own or buy a horse that rears so high it is not possible to stay seated, or worse still, it topples backwards; then you need expert advice if you wish to keep the horse. There are some very talented riders that specialise in problem horses and they can show you some wonderful success stories with horses that had been "written-off" as unridable.

BOLTING:

This vice is more than just high-spirited jinx. If a horse is galloping at speed, totally out of control and not responding to the rider's commands, the situation can be life threatening. When a horse is in a blind panic it loses all sense of reason.

First check that the horse is not suffering from any painful physical problem, that the saddle fits properly and the bit is comfortable.

Behaviour such as this is usually a result of mishandling when young, bad experience when being backed and broken or lack of schooling. Make sure the horse has plenty of free time and start a schooling program that will teach the horse to be responsive and light in the hands. Avoid large open spaces and only hack out with other quiet, confident older horses.

BUCKING:

Many would not consider this to be a vice, but if you are a fairly inexperienced rider, sitting on a horse that bucks can be a very frightening experience. If the horse does this as a habit, you need to know about it before you ride it. In order for a horse to buck, it has to lower its head and slow its pace to bring both hind legs together and underneath to gain enough power to push upwards. If the rider is aware of this and reacts quickly enough, the horse can be prevented from lowering the head and the horse can be driven forwards, so as to keep both hind legs in motion. Once again, plenty of turn-out time and correct feeding for the type of work the horse is doing, will help to calm an excitable temperament.

Check that the tack fits correctly and that the horse is not in any discomfort. One favoured method of working off excess energy before a work out or a hack is to lunge the horse for a short period before mounting.

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